A water heater usually leaks from loose or corroded fittings on top, the temperature and pressure relief valve, the drain valve near the bottom, condensation on the outside of the tank, or the tank itself once rust has worn through. Fittings and valves can often be repaired, but a leaking tank means it is time for a new heater.
Find Where It Starts
Wipe the outside of the tank and the floor dry with a towel. Do not touch hot pipes or the burner area. Check back after a few minutes and see where water appears first:
- On top or running down the side: a fitting
- From the pipe on the side valve: the relief valve
- At the spigot near the bottom: the drain valve
- Directly under the center of the tank: the tank itself
Fittings and the Drain Valve
The cold-water inlet and hot-water outlet connect at the top, and their fittings can loosen or corrode. The drain valve can drip if it is worn or not fully closed. These are usually repairable without replacing the heater.
The Relief Valve
When heat or pressure builds past a safe point, it lets water out through the pipe on its side. A thermostat turned up too far, strong water pressure coming into the house, or simple wear can all set it off. Leave it open and never cap it.
Condensation Versus a Real Leak
On chilly days, or after several showers in a row, beads of water can form on the tank and then dry once it warms back up. Water that collects and spreads across the floor is not.
Until it is checked, close the cold-water inlet valve and turn off the gas control or breaker. If you smell gas, leave and call your gas utility or 911 from outside.
Once the source is clear, a plumber can tell you whether the heater is worth repairing. For an older unit, sorting out a replacement while there is still time avoids a rushed choice. Call JPR Plumbing at (833) 603-1840.