A water heater can leak from the pipe fittings on top, from the relief valve discharge pipe on the side, from the drain valve near the bottom, from simple condensation, or from the tank itself once corrosion has worn through. Each has a different meaning for whether the heater can be repaired.
Match the Water to Its Source
Dry the tank and floor with a towel, then check back in a few minutes:
- Water running down from the top: likely a loose or corroded fitting
- Water coming out of the pipe on the side: the relief valve is opening
- A drip at the spigot near the bottom: the drain valve
- A puddle under the center with everything above dry: the tank itself
Do not touch hot pipes while you look.
Fittings and Valves Are Often Fixable
Top fittings can be tightened or replaced. A drain valve can be swapped. The relief valve is a safety device that opens when pressure or temperature gets too high. If it releases water, the heater may be set too hot, your home’s water pressure may be high, or the valve may be worn. Never plug it.
Condensation Versus a Real Leak
On cold days, or right after the tank fills with cold water, a little moisture can form on the outside and drip. It usually stops once the water heats. A puddle that keeps growing is a true leak.
A Leaking Tank Means Replacement
Once the inner lining rusts through, the tank cannot be patched. Plan for a new heater soon, since tank leaks tend to grow.
Until then, close the cold-water inlet valve and turn off the gas control or breaker. If you smell gas, leave and call your gas utility or 911.
The leak source can be confirmed on site, and the options explained. If replacement is likely, comparing new heater options before you need one avoids a rushed choice. Call JPR Plumbing at (833) 603-1840.